Scanned in December 2001; and cleaned up a bit. 

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Dear ALL, 

Guess I’11 make some attempt at a trip letter, although must admit that the last 4 months have all really been a trip so this is actually a trip within a trip. Not necessarily a better trip than the overall trip but at least one limited enough in time that I can attempt to describe it. Before going into the day by day account one can generalize by saying we're glad we went even though the trip had two strikes against it from the start. First, it was in August, which is when everyone in Europe is on vacation so everything is crowed. Second, we were taking advantage of having a car in Europe to see lots of things lightly so did much more rushing around than Dawna and I normally do when we spend a week in one or two cities and figure missing the rest of the country is just the breaks. But we knew both of these handicaps when we started and if anything it probably worked out better than we had expected. 

DAY 1(Thursday)::::: We had a 9:45 AM ferry from Ramsgate which is 100 miles from home and since you need to be there an hour early it meant the day started quite early; but we made it with plenty of time to spare and the ferry trip was quite decent. So by mid afternoon we were driving on the "American-side" of French roads with the steering wheel on the wrong side of the car. Headed for Champagne country and found a quite reasonably priced room in Reims. Walked around a bit, ended up eating some excellent crepes, seeing a bit of the night activity, seeing the cathedral exterior and then to bed. 

DAY 2(Friday)::: Tried for crepes for breakfast but not open so got some items at a bakery. Checked out the cathedral and its interior; then headed down some back roads to explore this wine country. Lots of grapes and villages and nice. Went to Epernay, which is the Champagne capital and did a tour (in English) of one of the major producer's 'caves' which was quite informative and fun.....the ground literally has 100's of miles of tunnels for champagne storing and we walked a bit of them. Onward through the countryside with a picnic lunch on a hill looking over the vineyards. Then more serious driving into Paris. Dawna drove while I guided and even though it was Friday rush hour we did fine. Hunted a bit too long but found accommodations. Then by Metro to the West Bank area. Walked around this lively and interesting area. Finally ate a fixed price meal at one spot. OK, but not magnificent. Highlight was a group on the street that played music with lots of enthusiasm, big crowd, passing the hat for money, etc. Enjoyed by all and especially the kids. Bit more walking and then Metro and then bed. 

DAY 3(Saturday):::Metro to West Bank. Some food from a bakery. Walk across the Seine and along a street with lots of sidewalk stands selling pets. Out to the Louver just before opening with plan of taking the English speaking guided tour but.......guards had been on strike for a week so museum closed. Nate was very disappointed and the rest of us somewhat also but.....So lots more walking. Up Champs Elysees. Lunch at a Creperie and excellent and the lady let Sarah make one of the crepes. Exchanged some French Travelers Checks for French money and paid a heavy surcharge which made us mad. On to Arc de Triomphe and then walked to the Eiffel Tower....checking out things as we went. Sidewalk cafe break. Walk on back across river and up to Pompidou Center (doing a bit of shopping along the way) which is a crazy modern building which we explored a bit. Outside the building are various freelance people drawing pictures, playing music, etc. Kids ended up having fortunes told via Tara Cards (not too great). Metro to West Bank and dinner at a place which did couscous; not great. Again lots of action in streets and fun, however. METRO and BED. 

DAY 4(SUNDAY)::: Head out of the city and towards the chateau country that is southwest of Paris. Picnic Lunch on the River Loire. On to Chateau Chambord which was very impressive outside; not much decorated on the inside since little restoration and little furniture....as compared to what we're used to with English Manor Homes. Certainly different and fun to have seen however. Onward to Blois where we found a real bargain for accommodations. Then did the Blois Chateau, which was quite impressive inside with painted ceilings and walls, nice floors, and overall very good. Dinner was good with Nate having steak and the others of us having coco-vin, veal and I don't remember what else. Sarah went wild with the fruit bowl for desert and the waiter enjoyed giving her extra. Meanwhile every evening the wine prices and quality are great which was a nice treat. 

DAY 5(MONDAY)::::Rolled back into central France with goal of the Burgundy country. Local roads and as get near the heart of the burgundy country quite nice villages and rolling grape-covered hillsides. Ended up at the "capital" which is Beaune. Lots of tourists but is a fun spot with many, many fancy wine stores some of which are in the 'caves' under the city. Dawna was wiped out so we three other kids hit the town a bit that night and had a reasonable dinner in a spot that was rather German in nature. 

TUESDAY::::::Head out of France and into Switzerland. Fun to get into mountain areas – clean, crisp, etc. Entered Lake Geneva at one end and took the slow road along it to Geneva, stopping for a picnic lunch along the way. Into Geneva and parked in the middle of town (actually under the lake). Walked around a couple hours for Nate.....but actually everyone enjoyed it (Dawna went for the high style jewelry stores with splendid watches of course).Then headed out of town on tiny roads to find Nate's spot. This is a spot he had picked a year or two ago as part of one of his role-playing games. Found the proper farm field, took a picture and then drove out of Switzerland on a small road, but even on this tiny road they had border checkers. Thus, into France again but heading south towards Mount Blanc. Selected a mountain village (Saint Gervais) to stay in which required driving mountains a bit. Things rather full but did get accommodations. Hunt for a meal.....as always we were doing this too late in the evening so people too hungry and tired for the hunting to be too much fun. Ended up at nice folksy place and D, S, and I had fondue while Nate had a grilled pork chop. Sarah didn't like the fondue (too strong of 3ine) so she had some pizza.....she was great at trying different foods during the entire trip!!! Nice sleep and pretty view of the Alps out the window..... although a bit overcast/foggy. 

WEDNESDAY::::: Up in the AM and drive to Chamonix, which is just before the Mount Blanc Tunnel. Glaciers everywhere above us and really spectacular spectacular. Drove through the long tunnel, which took (via Sarah) 12 minutes and 30 seconds, and popped out the other side in Italy. Drove down the motorway a bit and the villages on the sides of the valley are nice. Stopped at one and bought some meat and cheese, etc. and went for a couple hour hike with a picnic part way up a small piece of the Alps. Day had cleared off and was a super view. Rolled on down the valley descending down from the high Alps. Some on motorway and some on a parallel regular road so as to see the villages, etc. better. Got to Cuneo a bit late and Ester was awaiting us. Unloaded our world into her new apartment....was nice to be in a 'home' again. Had a super meal which included a Lasagne that is made with eggplant, a fine tasting pork item (rolled and herb stuffed) and lots of fruit and cheese; the former of which included fine apricots which the kids loved. And wine, wine, wine of course. 

THURSDAY:::::: The five of us went over to the French Riviera. This involves crossing the Maritime Alps which meant quite a bit of mountain curves and climbing, the going through of many interesting villages and areas, as well as crossing back and forth between France and Italy about 4 or 5 times each ways with lots of passport showing all the way. Explored the Rivera, walked a couple of old towns adjacent to it. Swam in the Meditererranee (that is Sarah and Dad did) which was clear and a proper temperature. Picnic on the beach. More exploring as far down the coast as Nice. A medireview village on the mountainside above the sea was fun for seeing. Also car trouble ...... overheating.....which was livable by slow and careful driving plus adding water but not fun. Seemed to be a replay of the trouble we had in driving back from Scotland a month earlier. Our attempt to fix the problem that time was to see Mr. Ford who flushed every thing, put in a new thermostat, pressure tested the system, and adjusted the carburetor to run more properly. But the car had always run a bit warm and now in hot Italy with stress, it was Hot. Did make it back to Ester's however. On way back had dinner in a mountain village called Limone. Was a great meal, made partially that way because we had our official translator and suggester of good eats. The kids ate and ate and we all had a highlight of a time. Got home late and tired... 

FRIDAY::::Decided to have Ester's friendly mechanics look at the car and hopefully be on the road by noon or something. They did lots of checking and were quite nice about it (with Ester translating) and after doing the usual... radiator flush, thermostat removal, test drive.....they said maybe the radiator is a bit clogged but they didn't think it too serious....especially since it didn't overheat when they tested it. But I decided that was because it was cool out and we should try for a fix while we had a translator. So arranged to have the radiator bored out and put back in by noon the next day. Thus another day with Ester and her hospitality which we spent doing relaxed (for a change) shopping ....Dawna got 2 or 3 pairs of good Italian shoes quite inexpensively; and took a 20 mile trip to a real, real old village with a very nice small church and not nearly as many tourists as other places. Quite spectacular. Evening meal not quite as sensational as the day before but excellent eating once again. 

SATURDAY::::Everyone got to sleep in for a change and liked it. Did a tiny bit more shopping showed up at the car spot and car was ready and very inexpensive compared to English prices. Headed down the motorway towards Genoa/Pisa. Unbelievable road along the Med. with mountains right down to the sea and the motorway having about 50% of the mileage as tunnels and another 20% as bridges. These statistics were determined by Sarah. Lunch overlooking the Sea. Got off Motorway to drive a bit of local road to Carrara, which is where Michelangelo got lots of his marble. Mountains look like snow but its really marble quarries. Messed around a bit and kids got some pieces but we didn't buy any carvings. Onward to a midlevel town called Lucca which was mobbed and the restaurant in our book was no longer open and we didn't spend much time there for wanted to get to Pisa before dark....which we did. Checked into a previously arranged hotel and then went over to the square that has the Tower plus Church plus Babistery. Getting too late as always but fun to sit and look at it all and have dinner....very good Lasagna and fine pizza. Walked around a bit and then to bed... 

SUNDAY::: Up and back to square to look around in daylight including walking up the leaning tower and going in the Cathedral and Baptistery.....really enjoyed all three and the general layout. By now we were carrying long pants to put on over our shorts to go into the churches, etc. Drove the slow way to Florence. Wasted a lot of time finding accommodations because Tourist office was at wrong address and also closed and our books weren't too helpful, but did get a spot. Headed off to see things (David first) and discovered most things were closed in the afternoons and would also be closed Monday....i.e. we goofed! Did see the city by lots of walking and went in a couple places. Ended up getting the kids portraits drawn at a spot where a couple dozen artists were all doing it and you wander around and find one you like. That was a highlight and especially neat to have it from such an art center (we were in the courtyard of one of the main art museums). Had a very good dinner but by now I can't remember what we ate each night and don't seem to have any Florence notes handy. Also checked out the Dumo and Babistry at night and they are spectacular. Plus plenty of pigeons to feed as well as some interesting markets to walk through. 

MONDAY:::Back to Dumo etc. to see the insides; down to the shops and to the shops on the river; walking back to the car found a super store of rocks and sculptures and the lady was quite nice so it was like a gallery and we did buy some souvenirs but not the $2000 neat table top. Headed out of town on way to Siena. Couldn't find gas because it was siesta time but made it to our first stop which was the hill top village of Saint Gimignano with wall around it and many towers; twas where all the rich merchants of Pisa had their retreats. Fine spot to walk around. Then on to Siena. Found accommodations, walked this old historical town and had dinner at a sidewalk spot on the main square. Lots of pigeon feeding for Sarah. As always in Italy the meal was good, as was the wine. Bed time too late as always. 

TUESDAY:::Had decided that Florence was on our way so went back there; parked the car and saw the museum with David and some half finished other Michalangelos; went to another sculpture museum; and left town by noon. Slow twisty drive across Italy; up and down the backbone, which is a continuation of the Alps. But interesting and through the Chianti vineyards. Ravenna in midafternoon, the purpose of which was to see the best mosaics in the world and we did and I can believe they are. Very enjoyable town to stroll around also for off the main tourist route so only fanatics were there. Then headed north towards Venice. Stopped about 50 miles before Venice at Chioggia which was once a fishing village but what is now a poor man's Rivieria or a German's close beach. Hard to find accommodations but did succeed. Motel man suggested a less touristy place where we could get some fish and we had a different and enjoyable meal there. Couple of fish based starters and then a main meal wherein I had cuttle fish (which I guess were squid) and Dawna had a frog (yes a frog; not just frog legs). The cuttle fish were excellent but quite rich. 

WEDNESDAY:::Next morning rolled up to the Venice area and stopped at a tourist office on the motorway to get some maps and make accommodation arrangements. Decided to stay a bit outside Venice (where cars are allowed and where leaving the next AM wouldn't be such a hassle) Went there and checked in and then headed into Venice via local bus...which was crowed but got us right there. Walked a bit; had a pizza lunch to freshen up; walked some more; took boat-bus down the main canal to primary (i.e. St. Mark) Square. Cathedral was fantastic with respect to Mosaics (floors especially and you could actually walk on them). Awfully mobbed city however and we were all a bit tired out. Lots more walk, explore, shop and a Gondola Ferry to cross the canal. Good dinner with Dawna having Squid and Jake having a roast chicken. In all fairness the huge number of people and our tiredness left Venice memories not as great as they might likely have been. 

THURSDAY::: Next morning was time to begin our wandering way 'home'. Rolled out of Venice smoothly and went to Verona which has a first century Roman Amphitheater; the only larger one is in Rome. Good sight. Also had a picnic. Then headed North more seriously but up a local road rather than the motorway. Then onto the motorway. Again, super valley as we climbed up the Alps; i.e. vineyards, vineyards and vineyards on the hillsides as well as neat villages. Crossed into Austria. Nice but not spectacular like Mt. Blanc was. Skirted Innsbruck and headed West across Austria. Quite pretty and oh, so clean, to be in mountains again, as opposed to the more southern low land. Stopped at small village and ended up at a bed and breakfast type place. Nice lady, clean, cheap and relaxing. Ate dinner at a local spot and had fine soup, good goulash, good veal and excellent apple strudel. 

FRIDAY:::: Sarah and Dad got up early and went for a walk in the Alps countryside. Tried to get across a river to a nice looking village but couldn't make it. Bit foggy but fun and Sarah picked some corn and wheat to feed pigeons later. Houses all charming with flowers in window boxes. Relaxed breakfast and then headed Westward again. Pretty but lots of low clouds and some rain. Dry enough for a pretty roadside picnic at one stage however. Into Zurich (for Nate who bought a high-resolution map of 'his' part of Switzerland) and walked around awhile. Clean, nice town but not as impressive as Geneva we felt. Just finished our walk and it rained like crazy, but managed to slowly drive out of town. Motorway to nearly Basel where we pulled off on local road to look for accommodations. People wanted a lot of money considering it was countryside. Found a spot, however, and had dinner there also in a fine dinning room. Meal was good and we had veal and something else I think. 

SATURDAY::::Breakfast at the hotel (part of the room rental) and then onward north through Germany on the motorway. Large number of people driving very fast but very well behaved and things moved along well except for occasional bumper to bumper slow downs. Also a lot of rain at times to slow things up and spoil the view. Went to the Rhine River Valley and drove along the prime local road from Mainz to Koblenz for 50 miles or so. Castles all over the place; as well as Vineyards. Many boats on river, trains running along river, bike lane along the roadside, and generally a super area. Unfortunately there was a fair amount of rain and fog so viewing not as great as could have been. Stop at a supermarket to buy some German wine and then drove on a bit more since today was the day to cover some miles. Ended up in Aachen in a downpour and too late as always, but located the railway station, tried a few hotels near it and ended up fine. Ate dinner across the street in an Italian restaurant (almost embarrassing but no time to go hunting for German cooking). It was actually quite good. 

SUNDARY:::Awoke and had the included continental breakfast and then off towards Brugge, Belgium....getting a little lost on the way and bumping into and out of The Netherlands. Arrived Brugge shortly after noon and it is a real neat old city with a square, church, sidewalk cafes, etc. Ate a dinner for lunch which for Dawna and Jake meant having the local specialty which is mussels served in the shell and in a cheese sauce (Sarah had several also). Excellent, and one of the highlight meals of the trip. Walked around a bit and then headed towards the ferry but going along the coast. Real, real resort/tourist area and fun to see but like Coney Island and eventually one gets tired of the very slow traffic. Cross into France and arrive at Ferry spot in plenty of time. Small picnic lunch for dinner. Bit of excitement because while the kids and I were checking out the building with bathrooms, ticket agency, etc. they began moving cars from the parking area, through passport control, and into the staging-for-loading area. Dawna was resting in the back seat, got awoken, couldn't find passports, had to pull over for a minute but then they let her through; and about then we all appeared and all was well. Meanwhile the motion sickness pills were nowhere to be seen,....,but turned out to be a very, very smooth sailing so no problems with anyone. The Ferry arrived England about 1 AM and then we drove home (a couple hours) so it was a long day end of trip. 

Tis us