Note: This was reconstructed in late 2001 having been destroyed when a disk crashed, so won’t exactly match the original.

 

Pacific Northwest - Summer 1999

Introduction: The starting point for this outing was that we like to go to a track meet or two each year and the US Nationals, which are also the qualifiers for the World Meet in Seville, were to take place in Eugene, Oregon at a time we had relatively "open." Plus, Eugene is a hot-bed of track so we figured being involved with an enthusiastic and knowledgeable crowd would add to the enjoyment. This then meant we could also visit the Kimballs and as it turned out continue further north to the San Juan Islands and visit the Borners. At first we thought Willy would be there alone and working on the house so we’d stop by and also explore places on our own, but once it was established we’d really be showing up there, Vreni decided to be there and do things with us. The end point of the trip fell naturally into taking advantage of the 4th of July long weekend and also doing the "small town" forth in Ashland; while the start was set by the amount of time we wanted to use (i.e., I was will to be away from work).

Wednesday - 1: Dawna picked me up at the lab at 2:30 PM and we headed out. The traffic was much worse than we expected, given we had left early to beat the commuters, but it was bearable. It only let up when we headed north on I-505. Drove as far as Red Bluff where we gassed up and then on to the first Rest Stop overlooking Lake Shasta. When we got out of the car at the gas station we were surprised at how hot it was, but it had just began to cool off as we sat at picnic tables at the Rest Stop and had dinner (sandwiches, chips, drinks, etc) overlooking the lake. Later we learned it had topped 100 ° F in Redding that day. Drove on to the Kimballs marveling at the number of trucks on the road and at all the road construction, while also enjoying the scenery. Mt. Shasta was mostly in clouds, however. Arrived there a bit after 10 PM and Phebe arrived a few minutes later from her music activity. Chatted, had a beer/wine, and hit the hay.

Thursday - 1: Got up at a leisurely pace and had breakfast in a similar manner. Did a bit of checking out things on the farm and then headed north. By the time we got to Eugene it was drizzling. Went to the track meet which had just begun (like 12:30 PM). Our seats were in a covered area so we didn’t directly get wet as it alternated between mist, showers, and periods of no rain. Not the best track meet weather but there were plenty of reasonable performances in spite of it. We got cold from just sitting there in the damp and cool environment, for awhile used the park quilt over us rather than under us, and eventually left before the final event or two. It was 7:30 PM or so and besides being cold we also were interested in finding our lodging before it got dark.

The lodging story is something else. We had gotten reserved, 4-day tickets a few months ago and then on the weekend before the meet decided to get a place to sleep. First, the track meet web site had a list of places and told how full they were and nearly all were full. We were amazed given that track isn’t all that popular. So we called a few places in the AAA book that weren’t on the web site listed. No one had all 3 nights available. Next, by now it was Sunday, we/Dawna talked to folks at the Chamber of Commerce and Convention Bureau. Everyone was quite nice and helpful and no one knew of any openings except quite far away. The line for one place, Westfir Lodge over in the Willamette National Forest had a line that was always busy. So, we decided to try for a camping site and got the number for some of them. Just before calling them we got through to Westfir Lodge again and got through and lo and behold they had accommodations which we grabbed up. We then began thinking that might be a fine place to be in any case since the general game plan was to go sightseeing in the morning and track meeting in the PM and sightseeing from a motel in Eugene would have likely meant driving 40 miles or so east to the forest while in this new situation it would mean waking up in the forest, having driven there the night before after the track meet.

Back to the main story line - we drove the 40 miles in rain/fog and found the lodge and checked in. Quite a neat place. A B&B which used to be the main office for the no-longer-there lumber mill which two fellows had spent the last 10 years making into a very nice B&B - antiques all around, etc. And the chaps were gems. I can’t imagine better B&B hosts. Jim was Mr Outgoing/Gracious; he had been a maiterdee at various places before retiring and Ken was the cook; he having been a chef before retiring. Ken was also quite nice but just not as outgoing as Jim. We checked in, took advantage o their offer of some fresh coffee and then headed out to dinner. When we had made the reservations they told us a good place to eat was in Oakridge (4 miles away) at a Mexican restaurant. We did and it was quite good. Dawna had a pork dish that had a pumpkin seed based sauce and I had a chimachunga and a enchilada. Both were good and the restaurant was cousy, while it poured outside. Back to the Lodge where we were supposed to eat home made deserts each evening but begged off due to our fullness from the late dinner and "just" had a drink (wine for DSW and sherry for me) before falling into bed. About the sherry, when they were so graciously showing us around upon arrival, Dawna had played the smart alec and said "and where is the sherry to go with all this" and they pointed to a set a foot away …….

Friday - 1: Our first of three great breakfasts. Endless coffee even before sitting down, then a nicely prepared fruit cup plus a yogurt, then eggs (we had a cheese omelet) with sausages (more on them in a minute), home baked bread products, and finished off with a crepe! All the while consuming endless coffee at our table for two near the window. Almost got sick since it really hadn’t been all that long since the Mexican meal. It was overcast but not raining and we headed out to get in some morning walking. Starting on a trail we had driven by when going to Oakridge the night before but the grass was high and wet and trail pretty unused (for this season) so we bailed out before getting too soaked. Went to where the map said there was ranger station so that we could get some hiking guidance but it wasn’t there so continued on to a roadside rest the other side of town where there was a chamber of commerce information booth but it wasn’t open, so went next door to here there was like a city or county park and did some walking on well maintained trails. Rather wimpy but better than nothing and a very nice rushing river - one of millions we encountered in this green/wet country. After our less than an hour loop walk we talked to a couple of folks who were doing some gardening there and they told us (a) the ranger station burned down a few years ago, (b) that chamber of commerce info station is only open on special occasions, and (c) there was a ranger station nearby - up the road and off a few roads nearby. We followed their directions and actually found it and then found a nice lady who told us of various hiking options; plus we bought a Forest map. Selected a hike that fit our limited time and did it. It was great, going along side a small lake and then river, lots of vegetation, and even a bit of wildlife - slugs, snails, salamanders, and a rattle snake.

Off to the track meet where we arrived mid afternoon - it had been going on for a couple hours but no major events yet. Weather was improved (no rain, but still cool) and we settled in and enjoyed ourselves. Didn’t get too cold although did eventual put on our gloves. After the meet we went to a county park on the way back to the lodge and cooked dinner over our infamous black box. The weather was better back this much further from the coast. The downside was the park closed at 9 PM and thus we had to make the charcoal fire, cook the bratworst, and eat in less than an hour. Did it but couldn’t just relax in the process. Onward to the motel where this time we cleaned up a bit and then had coffee and a desert - we both went for the creme caramel and it was excellent. Looked at some literature about the history of the lodge and area as well as at the Eugene paper which wrote up the track meet extensively and then to bed for a fine night’s sleep. Needless to say it was VERY quiet out here in the woods. Oh, yes, forgot to mention that Keith grew up in the country, was familiar with the now-extinct lumber mill (his father I think worked there), etc. which added to the enjoyment of the whole setting.

Saturday - 1: Slow awakening and another one of those breakfasts. Some variations, like Dawna had fried eggplant instead of something (perhaps the eggs) and there was ham with the eggs as well as sausage. The sausage was great. It was said to be Australian bangors made to Ken’s mother’s recipe (he being Australian) by a butcher in Portland. Nothing like the sawdust-filled English bangors but rather more like a good bratworst. Eventually we got into talking to him about buying some from the butcher when we went through Portland and he said the butcher only made them for him - but he agreed to sell us (basically gave them to us) after he and Dawna got more and more acquainted. After breakfast we did the Aufderheide National Scenic Biway route north from Oakridge. We had an audio tape that they provide at the ranger stations (and the B&B) at either end of the biway plus some literature and my new/fancy map. Drove extremely slowly along this beautiful route, stopping at all the "proper" places for short hikes or informational posting, etc, etc. Took a few relaxing hours. Great "wild and scenic" rivers with lots of flowing and a nice reservoir/damn.

When we reached the north end of the biway, we turned west and drove down yet another fine (McKenzie) river "full" of fishermen and into Eugene and the track meet. Again, better weather than the prior days and the tempo of the events was increasing; a highlight being the women’s pole vault where 5 very personable girls were doing quite well right in front of our seats. Also some of the big name stars were in the sprints. Meet ended, we went to a pizza place along the way back to the lodge for dinner, and then to the lodge for coffee, desert, reading, etc in the luxurious living/sitting room. We had the cheese cake this time! More sleep.

Sunday -1: Awoke and the Sun was pretty much shining already - a first for this trip. Had the usual extensive breakfast and then went outside to take a few photos of the B&B and covered bridge. Threw our stuff in the car, said goodbye several times, and drove into Eugene. With the Sun out things were crisper and you could see further, so we discovered many new sights. Arrive at the stadium as things were just getting underway - about 11 AM. It wasn’t as warm as we expected since the cover that had protected us from the rain also kept the warmth of the Sun away; but it was quite reasonable. Settled in and watched the action, what with four field events going on simultaneously and a couple setting records it was quite enjoyable. A bit disappointed that they still only got on the order of 9,000 persons watching. Luckily (really planned) the stadium only holds 13,000 so it didn’t seem too empty. A meet like this might have 60,000 or more in Europe, but so it be.

The meet ended about 2 PM and we headed north via I-5. The landscape turned to farm land but we could see a nice snow covered mountain above the clouds to the East. Fair amount of traffic but not a problem. Crossed the Columbia river at Portland, with things being quite clear/sharp so seeing Portland and the river was nice; and went to a grocery store where we bought some steaks and a stuffed/twice-baked potato. Stopped around 5 PM at a state park right next to the freeway and on a small river in order to cook dinner before it got too cold; and this we accomplished. Nice meal, nice spot, but noisy from the freeway traffic going across a bridge over our head. Drove beyond Seattle so that we’d not get involved in city traffic the next/Monday morning and then found a motel that seemed like a good deal in the AAA book and checked in. It was. Made use of their bath tub which was nice since the B&B was a shower situation as was the Borer’s. And a fine night’s sleep.

Monday - 1: A relaxed wake up including a try at logging on with my laptop but they had forgotten to activate our phone line and it wasn’t important enough to bother to tell them. Continental breakfast that came with the room and then drove onward a bit too late for the 10:30 ferry but in plenty of time for the noon one. Boarded and took a very nice 75 minute "cruise." The weather was reasonable to almost good and the water was smooth - most enjoyable going amongst the islands. Got to ours (Shaw) a bit before 1:30. Off loaded, checked things out a bit at the local/tiny/run-by-nuns store at the boat ramp, and then went to Borner’s. Had a coffee, chatted, and then Vreni and I rode bikes back to the store for some shopping. Only 5 miles but a bunch of hills, making it tough enough for me - like I walked up the major hill going both directions. Nice exercise and enjoyable way to see things, of course. Went next door and played horseshoes with a neighbor - Keith. Quite a fellow what with his boat and various trips, and house on the island (he lives near Portland) and he’s 84! Impressive. I thoroughly enjoy horseshoes so this was a treat and I did OK. The couple of Manhattans that got consumed while pitching didn’t cause any improvement of harm to my ability …. Rather late dinner (fondue by real Swiss folks and most enjoyable). Keith joined us as did Kevin, a young fellow who is up for several weeks working on the house/property for/with Willie and who stays in their guest house and thus eats basically all dinners with them. He is an interested/enjoyable "kid" of native American background. Took a walk after dinner and then off to bed. VERY quiet and a fine night’s sleep. The house was a bit too cool for our tastes for sitting around but great for sleeping.

Tuesday - 1: It rained a bit during the night and was overcast and cool out but not raining. Leisure awakening and breakfast and general bumming around. Can’t remember for sure but seems like the main thing we did that day was to take the boat over to Friday Harbor for a semi-serious shopping trip plus general look around this quaint/main San Juan Island town. They have a new boat which is very nice/comfortable and such boat trips are always enjoyable. Of course it included some excursions to see things, etc., rather than going directly to Friday Harbor. At Friday Harbor we walked the town, hit various shops for tourists as well as the hardware store and grocery store for "real" living. Willie was trying to buy more rollers so that the painting activity Kevin (and he) were doing could progress; but the selection was lousy. Got plenty of groceries which we carried to the boat and then back at Shaw from the small harbor back to the house.

More horseshoes and then a fine spaghetti dinner, a little reading/chatting, and another fine night’s sleep.

Wednesday - 2: Overcast but not raining so we figured we’d go for the trip over to Orcas Island and hike up to the top of Mt Constitution where the view would be spectacular IF it cleared up and in any case the hike would be nice. All four of us went on something like the 10:30 ferry - yes, we were taking things rather leisurely! Very short ferry trip. Drove around to a few hardware stores looking in vain for the desired paint rollers but also seeing some of the island - quite pastoral. Reasonable but not clear weather. Did the hike. It was fantastic what with all the different growth, especially mosses. Boy is this green country; actually only because it is early summer I gather. Pretty mountain lake at the start of the hike and then a bit of a steep part to the summit. Not real stressing but not wimpy either - a nice compromise. The top was pretty socked in so not great views although could see a bunch of islands (sometimes as the clouds came and went) which was nice. A fine lunch at the top (sandwiches we had brought along) and then down we went via a different and also enjoyable trail.

Stopped at one nice area to see a bay/inlet and got an ice cream cone there at a country store. Then to the artist co-op to look at their stuff (Dawna only bought a tiny item) where we also decided to have coffee. Once the menu showed up this turned into wine for the ladies and beer for Willy and myself rather than the planned coffee. Bit of grocery shopping and caught the 6:30 ferry for the short run back to Shaw. By now Willy was hooked on chewy ginger "candy" from Trader Joes that Dawna had brought and we had been talking about how it and peanut butter and soy sauce and various things would make a good sauce for bbqed chicken so a great making of the sauce took place and eventually applying it to the chicken which was then bbqed, them, by now in a slight drizzle. Very stylish (our words for late) dinner and another fine night’s sleep.

Thursday - 2: Awoke to cool/windy weather but not raining. Willy and I did a run to Friday Harbor to buy some paint rollers. The wind had move the odds and ends of floating logs away from our path so we pretty much flew over - the other day we had to take it slower at times to avoid running into driftwood. Got back, took it easy for awhile, and then the four of us headed out for a fairly extensive boat trip. Around the island (San Juan Island to be specific) to Roche Bay, which is yet another small island town with a large harbor filled with huge/expensive boats. Had lunch at the old/fancy hotel on the waterfront. Dawna had the crab bisque soup, I had clam chowder, and we shared an order of crab casadeas (sp). Plus a microbrewery beer with Africa in its name. Ate on the patio which was nice when the Sun was out and cool when it wasn’t. Walked around a bit seeing the fine gardens at the hotel, and then continued onward further around the island and into a cove where we eventually pulled up at the dock of an oyster (and mussels) farm which sells to the public in addition to restaurants. Bought some oysters for dinner. Back onto the water and home a rather different way. There are so many islands in the San Juans that one can always take a different path it seems. Water was a bit rough but on and off sunshine and most enjoyable for someone like me who so enjoys boating along. Got home and had dinner => the oysters for appetizer and bratworst (which we had brought along with us from Cupertino) for the main course. They ate a round of oysters raw but we declined and then we all ate a round or two of them bbq’d. Quite a neat technique is involved which makes it additionally fun, plus they were good. Seems like after dinner we went over and did some more horseshoe pitching.

Friday - 2: We had planned to take their small (sorta a standard row boat with an outboard motor) boat out and do some island hopping either just the two of us or three of us while Willy worked; but it was raining and that didn’t seem like much fun. Instead, Willy and Dawna made a trip to a lady’s house in order for him to hand over a check for a keg of beer for the community 4th of July picnic and also for Dawna to look at the stuff from Guatemala that the lady had for sale (they go there every year or two and stock up). She enjoyed seeing the person’s quite artistic house interior and also bought various things including four "picnic" table cloths; and is invited back anytime! Meanwhile, Vreni and I sat around drinking coffee, watching the drizzle over the water, and reading - I finished a book titled Women of the Boundary Waters which takes place in upper Minnesota where we are going to go in September - yes, there will be yet another trip letter to wade through. Probably did some trip letter writing as well (and certainly did some in the car on the way home later on) and may well have logged on (I did it once up there).

Then we got into the car and grabbed the ferry to a different nearby island, Lopez by name. Over there we drove to the end of the island looking at the surrounding country side as we went; mostly farm country. About the time we stopped at a neat beach the drizzle basically quit and we went beach combing. The name of the beach was Agate and the supply of nice rocks was endless. As you can imagine, Dawna got her fair share as did the Borners. Picked up a piece of driftwood or two as well. While there we spotted a Bald Eagle on the beach eating away at something (probably a fish) on the shoreline. Neat to watch as he tore pieces out and ate them and tried to carry the whole meal away but it was too heavy. After awhile he flew away because some other spectators spooked him and we went away as well. Back towards the ferry and another park on the beach and some more combing. We were looking for a frog-like piece of drift wood and found a few candidates. Meanwhile, Willy found a large neat piece of driftwood and we threw it into the van (actually, we got that piece at the first beach but who cares about such details). Stopped for a few things at a store, Willy, having made dough for pizza that morning before we left, needed a few more items for his production. Then onto the ferry we went. "Home" shortly and the elaborate pizza was prepared; plus Dawna and I did some car packing. Fine dinner; followed by a good walk down the road to the point where on a good day they see super sunsets and on this day we had a very light drizzle. But it wasn’t cold. In fact by the time we got back to the house it was almost warm and we sat out on the point and watched it become dark over the water.

Saturday - 2: Up at 6 AM in order to catch the 7:05 ferry. Starbuck’s coffee sitting at a huge picture window watching the islands drift by for our 50 minute ferry ride - most enjoyable way to start a day. Then onto I-5 heading south. Rain, rain, rain and lots of traffic but not so much as to bother us. Seems like we got through Seattle before a couple of major accidents occurred which would have slowed us down quite a bit. Around 11 AM we pulled off the freeway and went into a small town to Suzi’s café and had a meal - Dawna had the seafood omelet so I guess that was breakfast and I had fish and chips which must have been lunch. Not overly great but a very friendly waitress and homey sort of place with the coffee continually being refilled.

Onward through rain and no rain with Portland looking quite attractive as we whizzed by. We were making good time and since we had told Phebe we would be late, because we didn’t know the ferry schedules, we decided we’d take advantage of that to do a bit of bumming rather than just cruising down I-5. Considered taking the diagonal (Hiway 58) that we’d gotten used to going to Westfir but since the scenic dots stop at about Westfir and we’d seen that part several times we went for a different option of scenic dots and turned off north of Roseburg on Hiway 138. Found a ranger station and got some information and learned that we’d made a good choice since this was an Oregon Scenic Byway along the North Umpqua River and very very nice. Oh, yes, before doing this we stopped at a grocery store and picked up some steaks for a bbq dinner; like once a bum, always a bum. Rolled eastward on this very nice road reading a folder we had picked up titled "Points of Interest and Attractions along North Umpqua." Some drizzle but not bad and relatively good viewing and it seemed like it was going to improve as we went eastward into the mountains. It did and we stopped at Watson Falls while it was reasonably warm and had our steak dinner at a picnic table next to quite a roaring stream. Even did a short hike to the base of the falls (200 feet high or so and quite spectacular) after dinner and before hitting the eastward road some more. Followed the road to the north end of Crater Lake and then drove southward stopping to see impressive views of the lake; albeit a bit harmed by fog/clouds and some sleeting activity. Then onward to Ashland most of this trip being also along an Oregon Scenic Byway – next to the Rogue River. Not as neat as the prior one, however. Sure do like these long daylight days. Arrived at the Kimballs before dark, chatted a bit and hit the hay.

Sunday – 2: The 4th of July. Sunny and felt good to be warm. First a parade for which we had great seats for Keith and David had gone down early and staked out some territory. About noon the scene shifted from the parade to the band shell at the top of the park and a band concert by the Ashland City Band of which Phebe, and Marvin, are members. Excellent performance with the band music being interspersed with some talks by the mayor and other local dignitaries and the entire Declaration of Independence being read with enormous vigor by one of the Shakespeare actors. Oh, yes, the parade was also great fun since it was basically small townish plus Michaele, David and Liz’s 1.5 year old, was enjoying it very much and we were enjoying her enjoying it. All in all a very fine time. Back to P&K’s for a bbq (chicken) and eventually to bed.

Monday – 2: Up early so as to be on the road by like 7 AM due to a couple of motivating factors – (a) wanting to beat some of the traffic rolling into the Bay Area after a 3 day weekend and (b) had a party/another bbq to go to that evening. Made good time, stopped for a picnic along the way, and go to Cupertino a bit after 2 PM. Thus were able to unload the car, read the mail, water the yard, rest a bit, and go to Fridel’s for the bbq that night somewhat refreshed. Was a beautiful evening after a relatively warm bay area day and the shis-ka-bob was excellent as was the overall get together. We were glad to hit the hay, however, and were a bit slow the next day.

Summary – A fine trip in spite of the weather, but we sure didn’t take warm enough clothes. In fact, we ended up using some extra stuff that Dawna always has in the car in case of an emergency like an earthquake, as well as borrowing items at the Borners. Enjoyable track meet, excellent finds in terms of the B&B and scenic areas/rivers, fun 4th and visit in Ashland, and the San Juans plus Borners are neat. Next time we need sunshine and sparkling views, of course. Also, next time the visit may well be combined with a ferry trip through the Inland Passage into Alaska one way and driving (in the Toy) the other. But now it is time to prepare for the Minnesota canoe/cabin trip.

 


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